Knitted fabrics are everywhere in modern clothing. They are comfortable, stretchy, and flexible, which makes them ideal for T shirts, leggings, sweaters, underwear, activewear, and many everyday garments. Even though they look simple, knitted structures have a specific logic that comes from the loop formation. Understanding the differences between jersey, rib, and interlock helps beginners identify fabrics correctly, predict their behavior, and make better decisions in design and sourcing. This guide breaks down the essentials in a clear and practical way.
What makes knitted fabrics unique
All knitted fabrics are formed from loops that interlock with one another. These loops allow the fabric to stretch naturally without adding elastane. Because the loops can bend and open, knitted fabrics usually offer:
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High comfort
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Natural elasticity
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Smooth recovery
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Good drape
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A soft appearance
The way the loops are arranged creates different knit types, each with its own characteristics. In my textile foundation book, I explain these structures visually so beginners can recognise them instantly when handling real fabrics.
How knitting works
Knitting can be produced by hand, circular knitting machines, or flatbed machines. Regardless of the equipment, the concept is the same. A needle forms a loop, then another loop pulls through it, and the process continues row after row.
There are two main knitting systems:
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Weft knitting, which includes jersey, rib, and interlock
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Warp knitting, which includes tricot and Raschel, mostly used in lingerie and technical fabrics
This article focuses on the three most common weft knitted structures used in everyday garments.
Single Jersey
Single jersey is the most widely used knit structure in apparel, especially in T shirts and lightweight tops.
Appearance:
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Smooth face with “V” shaped loops
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Back side shows semi circular “purl” loops
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The fabric has a clear right side and wrong side
Performance:
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Good stretch
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Lightweight
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Breathable
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Slight curling at the edges
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Can shrink if not properly finished
Single jersey fabrics vary widely depending on yarn thickness, fiber type, and finishing. A T shirt jersey feels different from a soft viscose jersey or a technical polyester jersey. In my finishing book, I explain how compacting and softening help control shrinkage and improve the feel of jersey fabrics after knitting.
Rib Knit
Rib fabrics use alternating knit and purl columns. Common versions include 1x1 rib and 2x2 rib.
Appearance:
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Prominent vertical ridges
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Same appearance on both sides
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High elastic recovery
Performance:
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Excellent stretch, especially horizontally
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Ideal for cuffs, collars, and fitted garments
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Softer and more flexible than jersey
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Holds shape better because the structure pulls back naturally
Rib knit is popular in sportswear, loungewear, and trims. Because of its elasticity, rib knit can be used where woven fabrics cannot stretch comfortably.
Interlock Knit
Interlock is a more stable knit that looks smooth and identical on both sides. It is produced by two rows of needles that interlock loops from both sides.
Appearance:
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Smooth surface
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Balanced structure
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Slightly thicker than jersey
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Clean identical front and back
Performance:
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More stable than jersey
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Less prone to curling
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Soft and comfortable
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Moderate stretch
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Stronger and denser than other basic knits
Interlock is used in higher quality T shirts, leggings, babywear, sleepwear, and items where a soft, smooth feel is desired.
Comparing jersey, rib, and interlock
Understanding the differences helps with fabric selection.
Stretch:
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Jersey: moderate
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Rib: very high
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Interlock: moderate to good
Thickness:
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Jersey: thin
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Rib: varies but usually moderate
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Interlock: thickest of the three
Appearance:
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Jersey: different front and back
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Rib: same on both sides, vertical ribs
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Interlock: same on both sides, smooth
Best uses:
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Jersey: T shirts, tops
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Rib: cuffs, collars, fitted garments
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Interlock: premium T shirts, leggings, underwear, babywear
In my weaves and knits guide, I include clean diagrams of the three structures so even beginners can identify them by sight.
How finishing improves knit fabrics
Raw knitted fabrics often curl, shrink, or feel rough until they pass through finishing. Finishing steps for knitted fabrics usually include:
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Relaxation
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Washing
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Compacting
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Softening
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Heat setting for synthetic fibers
These steps help stabilise the structure, improve feel, and reduce future shrinkage.
The textile finishing book goes through each step in detail, showing how they affect real products and why finishing is essential for giving knitted fabrics a professional look.
Why beginners should master knit basics
Understanding knitted structures helps beginners:
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Identify fabrics correctly
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Predict stretch and recovery
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Choose the right fabric for a garment
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Avoid sourcing mistakes
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Understand shrinkage and spirality
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Communicate more clearly with suppliers
Most apparel categories rely on knitted fabrics, so building this foundation is important for anyone working in textiles, design, or production.
Further learning
Jersey, rib, and interlock are only the beginning. Once you understand these basics, you can explore warp knits, advanced knit constructions, knit defects, and finishing routes. My textile series explains these topics step by step so beginners can build knowledge quickly and confidently.
